Tuesday, March 16, 2010

2 years later.

Almost exactly two years ago I received my invitation to Peace Corps service in Fiji. Rubbing the sleep out of my eyes and re-reading the invitation to make sure I’d read correctly, Mandy and I immediately proceeded to goggle “Fiji” as I honestly knew nothing about the country except that it was in the middle of the ocean and rich people vacationed there. The health promotion/youth development project sounded like a good opportunity for professional growth, and Fiji seemed like a grand place to spend the next two years integrating into a community and culture different from my own. I knew accepting the invitation would bring challenges…but it was as though I thought I was standing in line to get on the American Eagle when I was actually in line for Raging Bull, and once you’re buckled in there’s no stopping.

This post isn’t to concentrate on the challenges though, because that would take away from the intense joy I feel at this point in my service, and the strange bittersweet feeling that is beginning to emerge as I begin to think about packing anything that hasn’t molded, faded significantly from the sun, or been eaten by ants and head back to a land I once called home, though “home” is also a strange term to use because I’m not really sure where home is anymore…or if it’s even a place. Perhaps it is instead a feeling that can experienced anywhere through a connectedness with the people and experiences at that moment in time.

This week, while spending most of my days rocking out to “sexy chick(yes, they replace b**** with chick on FM96)” and “noqu lewa” on the radio while labeling library books at the school, I was able to also spend time observing. I observed the teachers and the students and the classrooms and the energy and all of the things that I’ve been actively involved in for the last year. Removing myself from the action, I was able to identify some really incredible things. For instance, in the low level classroom there are children’s names in big block letters taped to the desks and a teacher is overheard saying “it’s ok if you don’t do it right, the most important thing is that you try…” This may seem like a normal classroom to you, but in Fiji this is a classroom whose teacher’s entire attitude toward education and her children has changed. Where before they would be chastised for calling out “B” when they should have said “C,” children are being encouraged to process information on their own terms. Another class is outside waving their arms in the air like tree branches in the wind. They are in a science lesson about weather. last year the same lesson was taught while they sat at their desks and copied sentences off the board, not actively involved in their own learning processes. In the pre-voctational classroom, the girls were learning how to draw a map so that next week they can make one of Lautoka & identify services they may need to access as adults. Every girl confidently stood up to explain the map of her own house—nevermind that they were unproportional or unreadable by the untrained eye—every single one explained in great detail—proving that living with Downe Syndrome, retardation, and other disabilities don’t have to prevent a person from being unable to learn and participate in her own development. Another discovery—there were no children aimlessly running around outside of their classrooms, and no teachers wandering away from their students, in every classroom, both were actively involved in the learning process—a beautiful, beautiful sight.

I have been facilitating professional development workshops focused on literacy with the teachers—this week we identified new ways of teaching phonics and dug into a new box of donations from Century Oaks School teachers—thanks mom!. Typically the teachers, just as most in America would do, leave right after the session at 4, as it is an hour over the time they usually get paid. This week they were still there when I finally left at 5, photocopying like crazy and getting really excited about teaching in new ways—non formal education helps the students retain information, but it also makes their jobs more fun!

I breathe in. sigh. swallow the lump that forms in my throat when I think about leaving these people who are not only my co-workers and students, but friends and family, and recognize this is exactly where I am supposed to be at this particular moment in time and I feel home.

I think about all the sweat and tears—literal sweat and literal tears, mind you—and can honestly say that these small changes, the ones that may never be put into numbers on an annual report or recognized by Peace Corps administration, are the reason I filled out an application almost three years ago.

Monday, December 7, 2009

Summer is upon us.

“Miss Sarah, can you really make those…what’s this?...umm…..snowmen? can you really make the snowmen out of snow in your country?” "yes, I love making snowmen..." "Miss Sarah? what is snow?"

It’s summer break here as the holidays approach & school is out for two months. The last year has been a flurry of unexpected events and challenges that have landed me at a place where my name is Miss Sarah…which the kids love to yell even when they have nothing to say to proceed it. This little school has been my community within the city, and where I’ve finally felt like I could call this place home and the people my true friends & “family.” Living in a city here comes with some great perks (like consistent access to cheese, a swimming pool, and resources for work) as well as unique challenges. When I moved to Lautoka, it was difficult not to blend in amongst the ex-pats and tourists. It doesn’t help that I live in one of the safer neighborhoods here, which is also coincidentally the middle to upper class suburbs of the city. It took a while before my coworkers and other locals realized I was here to be a part of their community and not the exclusive one amongst other Europeans in town. It took more work on my end to get invites for dinner or a night out—while the village is full of its own unique challenges, it would be a rare occurrence if any of them had an issue being invited over for dinner. I’m glad to report that my friends and coworkers finally feel comfortable stopping by my house for a few drinks, invite me to local events, and check in on me to make sure that I’m not getting lonely in my flat.

I am living in an incredibly paradoxical world where time stands still while moving at the speed of light. Some days move slower than molasses in a Canadian winter and then the calendar turns to December and I’m left a little overwhelmed with the feeling that time is moving all too quickly and that before I know it I’ll be on a plane back to America & this time it won’t just be for a short visit.

Let me give you a look into the last month of my life… my how it’s flown…

The students at our school participated in a junior Paralympics sports tournament in the capital city against other special needs schools. We boarded a crowded bus and camped out at a school there for three days going to the national stadium each day to play sports and participate in track & field events. At the end of the days, we returned to “camp” to eat dinner & prepare for the next day. The boys dominated the field playing rugby & soccer while the girls looked on…until Miss Sarah started running laps around the boys who are notorious for leaving the girls out of everything. Pretty soon the girls were all running laps around the boys, who, amused by this sudden change in gender roles screamed “lako! lako! (Go! go!) and cheered us on around each corner. I’m proud of my students who returned to Lautoka with more medals than I could count. It was also fun to see the students and staff outside of the school context and I had some great one on one chats with a few of the older girls who I have formed a bit of a sisterly bond with.





Thanksgiving, as you all know, is also when we Americans celebrate Thanksgiving…and celebrate we did. The volunteers on my island all convened in Suva for a delicious feast complete with all the essentials—sub chicken for turkey. After dinner we rested before heading out to the nearest dance floor to work off all those Thanksgiving kilos. I contributed Apple pies & raviolis to the dinner…one of the apple pies went to the teachers the day before. They loved it! A few took the recipe, and one of the teachers declared that this year for Christmas she would make apple pie AND pumpkin pie that I supplied her the recipe for. It’s great to see people get excited about trying new things here, and since my love for cooking & baking has grown here, it’s one of my favorite things to exchange recipes. My next endeavor is to cook kakoda correctly (fish cooked by rubbing salt on it, then covered in coconut milk, coriander, onions…) mmmm it’s delicious.

At the school we finished the world map mural—and though it was a bit chaotic—the kids managed to pull of a world culture fair to display newfound knowledge on various countries around the world & served food based on recipes from those cultures. The two students studying Argentina was very happy to discover the delicious nature of quesadillas that they are determined to bring to their dinner tables at home.



My family visits in two weeks…I’m very excited to take a real vacation to Taveuni—the Garden Island. I haven’t been in vacation in-country for a long time…I’m about ready to discover some new places in this country before my time runs out!

If I don’t write before the new year, Happy Holidays!

Wednesday, October 21, 2009

2 months of chaos.



So I've been really terrible at keeping you guys at home up to date on life here in Fiji. I've been really busy, so here's a photo montage to give you a brief idea...

The week I got back to Fiji was Sugar Festival...the annual "County Fair" type event in Lautoka.

There were dance competitions. a parade


and Sugar Queens of all sorts...including a night for transgender queens. Miss Rotuma was my favorite.

The next week we had a literacy camp at the school. A few other volunteers came to help, and though a bit chaotic (like most projects are) it was fun and a huge hit with the students & teachers.
We made silly sentences,

and bookmarks amongst other things.

The last day everyone got an award for participating. They were very excited about said awards, and some still carry them around...which is incredible because typically if you give them a piece of paper it's gone by lunch time.


We started the world map mural! Next week we start painting the countries in :)


We celebrated Fiji Day (Fiji's Independence Day)...
The kids put on a skit & sang the national anthem way out of tune...



and I decided I needed a weekend off, so I went snorkeling near Steve's village.
I went on a treasure hunt under the water and found this. I also explored an abandoned hotel...but those pictures are not for the public as most of the writing on the wall is explicit in nature.

I went to one of the squatter settlements nearby to do some composting & backyard squarefoot gardening workshops with my colleagues...
The community was very proud of their model makeshift compost

and square foot gardening is underway...first up, capsicum & Tomatoes

There was a "Race Against Poverty" in Lautoka, sort of like the Amazing Race except the clues all led to stakeholders in poverty alleviation in the area. I serves as the photographer/official hydrater of all participants. They were probably sick of me telling them "drink water!"



Next we celebrated Diwali...the Indian festival of lights. It's when Lord Raam is said to have returned from exile, and it is a celebration of his reunion with Sita Raam.
Everyone dressed in their best Sarees & Cameez
Jessie & I lit our Diwali candles & put them in the front to burn at night.
We went for some delicious curry & sweets at a local friend's place

After the race & Diwali festivities, a few of us decided to rest in Nadi Bay.

And that pretty much sums it up.

Happy Belated Diwali!!!

P.S. here's a glimpse into my daily life. and yes, they really are this nuts, even when there's not a camera in front of them.


video compliments of Amy. This was her group of crazy children during our literacy fetsival.

Tuesday, July 7, 2009

America consumes. and Fiji keeps on living.

Since being here, I’ve become much more aware of what it means to have come from a consumerist society—a society of people that can’t get enough of bigger, better, newer, and shinier. Millions upon millions of dollars are spent on advertising alone. I haven’t done any formal research or anything, but if I were to guess I’ll bet we could feed a nation of starving people just using all the money we spend marketing products most of us don’t actually need…and if we did we could just go to the supermarket & find them. No offense to you all whom I love dearly at home, but checking facebook these days just makes me nervous to go back to that consumer world I came from. Every five minutes a new status update tells me that so and so has a new i-pod, that someone’s partner proposed & now they have a really expensive ring on their finger which no doubt will be posted in its own photo album where everyone will ooo and ahhh over the huge rock, that someone’s phone is broken—God forbid you not be able to communicate with them for the day it takes to fix it….you get the picture. Now I can’t point any fingers because I too come from this world…a world where half the fun of the Superbowl is the commercials, where buying a few cups of Starbucks a week is normal, and where last season’s clothes are sent to Village Discount because they’re no longer good enough to wear. I just hope I don’t fall back into this love of material things…and I probably won’t be as big of a waster of money as I used to be….but the temptation to fit in has remained with me—whether here in Fiji or back in America, and in America to fit in is to consume.

To contrast America…let me give you a few of my favorite examples that describe the simpler way of life lived here. Commercials here probably cost about $50 to make. Seriously, they just go to someone’s kitchen & film them cooking up some chow noodles (similar to ramen) and then put a low budget jingle to it. No fancy technology, no woman in a bikini eating a seductive bowl of noodles….just an ordinary mom in a sulu stirring a pot. As far as clothing goes…I can walk out of my house wearing a bright pink sulu (piece of cloth) tied around my waste, an orange Illini t-shirt, and old flip flops…and no one would give me a second look. No one would look me up & down & then turn to their friend and quietly talk about how my shirt didn’t match my skirt or how flipflops were SO last season….in fact I have gotten a few “URO!”s (the equivolent of Sexy! or Healthy!) in that exact outfit. I don’t seem to need much here, I don’t have a craving for bigger or better…I mean a good beer would be nice, and a dress without bleach stains might be a good addition to the wardrobe…but I honestly don’t feel that desire to have the latest version of the i-phone, or a bunch of accessories that only match one outfit, or thirty pairs of shoes (and you all know how much I love shoes)…I don’t want much here…I’m content with having enough, and I hope that attitude crosses cultures when I get back to America.

Now a look into my life over the last month (minus 4th of July…those will be up soon!)
On this particular day it was probably about 80* outside...brrr! Winter has arrived!
My herbs are growing! Fresh basil, thyme, rosemary & oregano...mmm mmm delicious :)

This is what the steam that feeds right into the ocean looked like before the community clean-up.
Clearing twisties wrappers out of the bushes.

Two little helpers ready to take on the leaves.


The kids each colored a letter during art class the week prior.
The boys decided to surprise us with a dance they made up during recess. Hilarious.
I've honestly never seen him so into anything in my life. I have discovered the way to his heart is through pop music & dancing.
They made up a rap about the school. He wants to be like "Chris Brown." isa.
blue eyes. One of my favorite kids ever.


Monday, June 1, 2009

A day in the life...

Well, as you can tell from the last year of stories I've told...nothing in Fiji is ever certain...
I started out working with FRIEND, and still am a bit...but I've finally found my niche here. I'm working at a school for kids with special needs. I'm assisting them develop a P.E. program & an art program. Two to three days a week I call the following photos "work." The teachers & I just completed a workshop on developing P.E. for students with special needs...and everyone is excited to start making a curriculum & involving all the kids, which from what I've been told, wasn't the case before.


I'm also developing an art curriculum...I'm like the neighborhood garbage collector right now...anytime I see someone throwing away a plastic bottle, egg carton, or anything else that could possibly be transformed into an art project , I fly through the air like superwoman to save it from the rubbish. I have rediscovered my love for arts & crafts though, I get excited when I practice them at home...speaking of, please don't spend money on postage, but I'll be home in August & if you wanted to donate some construction paper, crayons, powder paint, markers, or glue we could really use it. Once the art program is up & running we'll ask parents to give $1-2/year to fund it, but first we need to show them why art is so important in their children's development.


And finally, we also really need a library at the school. The kids have very few books to read & learn from...and most of their learning involves repeating the same things every day... a lack of resources makes it difficult to encourage creativity in thoughts & actions, improved literacy, or comprehension. Not only this, but the teachers don't have great resources to reference on the special needs of their students & intervention strategies. I'd love to get a library up & running before I leave...I'm looking for options of how to get this done, if anyone knows of organizations that would fund something like this, let me know!


That's it for now, hope you're enjoying summer back home...we're just now moving into winter...80 degrees, brrrrr!
Some of the kids on a Friday game day....they're a handful, but they sure do make me laugh!
Some of the kids during our water break....
This is my yaca (yah-the). Names mean a lot in Fiji, your last name determines your clan, and can show which position you have in society. It's an honor to have someone named after you, in fact I think in the training villages there are a couple new little ones that were named after Peace Corps Volunteers. You also have a special connection with those who share the same name with you, they are your yaca...and this is mine...her name is Sera but I address her as yaca.
One reason I love kids...you say 'everyone hop like frogs...' and they do, no questions asked, and no worries about how ridiculous they might look.

Ok, so the cone is supposed to be on the ground, but this is a creative "thinking outside of the box" use of one, so I approve.

Thursday, May 14, 2009

If only curing AIDS was as simpe as taking a bath....

If you were wondering what type of challenges both local stakeholders as well as foreign volunteers face when approaching HIV/AIDS awareness....this would be a big one.

I have nothing else to say on this topic for now....but you can look forward to a response soon I'm sure.

Sunday, May 3, 2009

11 months & counting...

The last month has been mildly busy with lots of paperwork, grant writing, and curriculum planning that you all really don’t want to read about.

My new place finally feels like a home after my roommate and I decorated it, added curtains, planted a garden, and have done our best to make it not feel like a prison cell of blue cinder blocks. We live on a little compound with four flats…and our neighbors just had a baby! I’m really excited to hold the little bundle of joy often, and I’m trying to re-learn the Hindi I haven’t really been using since moving to the city so I can make friends with the mother who speaks very little English.

The new group of volunteers comes in less than a month. It’s feeling very surreal knowing that a year ago I was in a similar place of frantic packing, a whirlwind of activities trying to fit everyone into my every-waning schedule, constant confusion & questions about what Fiji would be like, and attempting to prepare myself for the two years that lie ahead of me. If I could go back in time I would only pack half of what I did and fill the rest of the space with good tea & coffee, graham crackers, fruit leather, and a coffee press. I would have quit work more than a few weeks in advance to spend adequate time with all the people whose lives I would not be a direct part of in the two years to come, gone to a few more Cubs games, and taken more photos that would soon plaster the cinder blocks I have for walls. I would have written down my questions instead of letting them whirl like a cyclone through my head, and I would have stopped trying to prepare myself and focused on the here & now because no one can adequately prepare themselves for two years of Peace Corps service. Even though the available work goes in waves here, and occasionally I’ve been ready to throw in the towel and jump on the next plane to America, a year in I can recognize that I have done a lot of growing in my personal life, become much more capable of entertaining myself without tv, friends in the room next door, or constant internet access, learned how to cook with limited resources (you all would be wow-ed at my ability to cook sans-microwave), gained more patience than I ever thought possible, and taken my spirituality out of the western box it was wrapped in.

This next year might fly by…part of me hopes it does because I really miss the company of close friends, working in non-profits who really have their stuff together, and tacos. On the other hand, I hope to soak in every moment—every mundane detail of life here—knowing that when I arrive home the slow pace I once complained about, the simplicity I moaned about, and the hot weather I curse daily as I sweat on my way to work—will be things I wish I could return to after experiencing American life once again.